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Laser cutting settings for wood (plywood & MDF)
There's no single "correct" setting — it depends on your exact machine, lens and the specific sheet. But these starting points get you close on plywood and MDF, and the test-grid method below dials it in for good.
Price a wood cutting job →Starting points — diode lasers
Values are power % / speed (mm/min) / passes. Always test on the same sheet first.
| Material | 5–10 W diode | 20 W diode | 40 W diode |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plywood 3 mm | 100% / 180 / 3–4 | 100% / 300 / 2 | 100% / 600 / 1–2 |
| MDF 3 mm | 100% / 200 / 3 | 100% / 350 / 2 | 100% / 700 / 1 |
| Plywood 6 mm | not ideal | 100% / 150 / 3–4 | 100% / 300 / 2–3 |
Starting points — CO2 lasers
| Material | 40–60 W CO2 | 80–100 W CO2 |
|---|---|---|
| Plywood 3 mm | 70% / 12 mm/s / 1 | 55% / 20 mm/s / 1 |
| MDF 3 mm | 75% / 10 mm/s / 1 | 60% / 18 mm/s / 1 |
| Plywood 6 mm | 80% / 6 mm/s / 1 | 65% / 12 mm/s / 1 |
On CO2, aim to cut through in one pass where you can — a second pass on shifted material widens the kerf and chars the edge. Slow down before you add a pass.
Four things that matter more than the numbers
- Air assist. The single biggest win for clean wood edges — it blows away smoke and stops flare-ups. Use it always.
- Focus. An out-of-focus beam wastes power. Re-focus for each material thickness.
- Plywood quality. Cheap ply hides glue voids that stop the cut dead. Laser-grade or Baltic birch cuts far more predictably.
- Don't run 100% on CO2 to force it. Slower speed beats max power for a clean edge; max power just chars.
Dial it in with a test grid
The reliable way to find your settings: run a material test grid (built into LightBurn, or a template in LaserGRBL). It cuts a matrix of small squares, each at a different power/speed. Pick the fastest square that cuts cleanly through, and write it on the offcut for next time.
Know the cost before you cut
Once you know your speed, the price is just time × rate. Drop your file into the calculator, pick plywood or MDF and your machine, and it returns cutting time and cost.
Open the calculator →FAQ
What power and speed cuts 3 mm plywood?
On an 80–100 W CO2 laser, roughly 55–60% power at ~20 mm/s in a single pass. On a 20 W diode, 100% power at ~300 mm/min over 2 passes. These are starting points — run a small test on the same sheet because plywood quality varies a lot.
Why won't my laser cut all the way through plywood?
Usually glue voids in cheap plywood, a focus that's off, or too much speed. Switch to laser-grade or Baltic birch ply, re-check focus, and slow the speed before adding a second pass. Air assist also helps the beam reach the bottom of the kerf.
How do I stop burnt edges when cutting wood?
Use air assist, cut at the lowest power that still gets through, and keep speed up rather than blasting max power. Masking the surface with paper tape also reduces soot marks on the face.
Is MDF or plywood easier to laser cut?
MDF cuts very consistently because it has no grain or voids, but it produces more smoke and a darker edge. Plywood looks nicer but quality varies. For clean, repeatable cuts, MDF or laser-grade birch ply are the safest choices.
What we buy for plywood and MDF
Two thirds of "my laser won't cut through" is the sheet, not the settings. Voids in cheap ply stop a beam dead, and cutting flat on a solid bed reflects the beam back into the underside — that is what makes the brown halo people blame on power.
Birch plywood 3 mm, laser grade: Check price on Amazon ↗
MDF sheets 3 mm: Check price on Amazon ↗
Honeycomb bed: Check price on Amazon ↗
Air assist pump: Check price on Amazon ↗
Honeycomb and air assist between them fix more edge-quality complaints than any settings change on this page. If you only buy one, buy the honeycomb.
Disclosure: some links are affiliate links — if you buy through them we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Prices are approximate list prices at the time of writing; always check the current offer.