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Laser engraving settings for anodised aluminium
Anodised aluminium is the one metal a normal hobby laser marks properly. The laser bleaches the dye out of the anodised layer, leaving a crisp permanent white mark — no coatings, no spray, no fiber laser needed.
Price a job on this material →Settings table
| Job | CO2 40–60 W | CO2 80–100 W | Diode |
|---|---|---|---|
| Anodised / coated metal | 60–80% · 300 mm/s · 300 DPI | 50–70% · 400 mm/s · 300 DPI | 100% · 50 mm/min · 2 passes |
| Powder-coated tumbler | 50–70% · 300 mm/s · 300 DPI | 40–60% · 400 mm/s · 300 DPI | 100% · 60 mm/min |
Starting points, not guarantees. Focus, air assist, lens condition and the batch all move these numbers — confirm yours with a material test grid on an offcut before running a real job.
Anodised marks, bare aluminium does not
Anodising is a dyed oxide layer on the surface. The laser removes the dye and leaves the oxide, which reads as a bright white mark that will not rub off. Bare, raw or polished aluminium reflects the beam and does nothing at all — and on a CO2 machine, reflecting the beam back up the path can damage optics. Know which you have before you press go.
Marking spray for bare metal
For bare metal on a CO2 laser there are marking compounds (CerMark and equivalents) that bond to the surface under the beam. They work, they are expensive per piece, and the result is a black bonded mark rather than an etch. If you are marking bare metal regularly, that cost adds up fast and a fiber laser starts to make financial sense.
What you actually need a fiber laser for
Cutting metal, deep-engraving steel, and marking bare or polished metal all need a fiber laser (1,064 nm). No amount of power on a CO2 or diode will cut aluminium. If someone tells you their diode “cuts” metal, they mean it marks a coating.
Powder-coated tumblers
Powder-coated drinkware works on the same principle: the laser burns the coating off to reveal the metal beneath, giving a bright mark on a dark cup. It is a high-margin product and the settings are forgiving. You need a rotary attachment for the curve, and it is worth checking the coating is genuinely powder coat and not a printed wrap, which melts.
Turning settings into a price
Once the settings are stable, the job becomes arithmetic: engraved area divided by speed and line interval gives machine time, and machine time times your rate gives the price. The engraving time calculator does it from dimensions, and the file calculator does it straight from your SVG, DXF or PDF. For what to charge per hour, see the hourly rate calculator.
FAQ
Can a CO2 laser engrave aluminium?
It can mark anodised aluminium, and it cannot cut or engrave bare aluminium at all. Anodising is a dyed oxide layer, and the laser bleaches the dye out to leave a permanent white mark. Bare or polished aluminium reflects the beam, does nothing, and can damage your optics on the way back.
What settings mark anodised aluminium?
Start at 60-80% power, 300 mm/s and 300 DPI on a 40-60 W CO2, or 50-70% at 400 mm/s on an 80-100 W machine. On a diode, run 100% power at around 50 mm/min with two passes. Test on the back or an offcut - anodising thickness varies between suppliers.
Do I need a fiber laser for metal?
For cutting metal, deep-engraving steel, or marking bare and polished metal, yes. A fiber laser at 1,064 nm is absorbed by metal in a way CO2 and diode wavelengths are not. For anodised aluminium and powder-coated items, your existing CO2 or diode is enough.
What settings engrave a powder-coated tumbler?
Start at 50-70% power, 300 mm/s and 300 DPI on a 40-60 W CO2, or 100% at about 60 mm/min on a diode. The laser burns the coating off to expose the metal underneath. You will need a rotary attachment for the curve, and check the finish is genuine powder coat rather than a printed wrap, which melts rather than marking.